Jump to content

RS buggy on ebay


Rossp

Recommended Posts

Hi, re the question about frame extenders and swan neck, near the front of this section you will find the dimensions to convert your existing down tube into a swan neck ( you just need somone to weld it up again)

Frame extenders will alter the tow point of the buggy and give more grip to the front, however you dont say what tyre / pressure combo you are running.

As a rule I ran my RS / super RS with the following:

  • barrows at 10psi
  • Midis ar 8psi
  • Bigfoot lights at 4psi

with no understeer problems...........:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 930
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When I first got my RS I too had a bit of understeer (front breaking out before the back). Following advice from Mav I reduced the front tyre pressure (to what I don't recall:o ) and it helped. Since then I've fitted extenders (buggy is 1.35 axle, midis, std neck) and it runs sweet! I was initially concerned about possible flexing adding the extenders, but no problems. Just bolted them on and there they've stayed:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mind if I pick your brains? Just got new RS seat and backrest.

The straps coming from top of seat are vertical, not horizontal as I was expecting. What way do you strap these onto siderails/ backrest?? If you strap sideways onto siderails, the stitching will be under strain and will give way eventually?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mind if I pick your brains? Just got new RS seat and backrest.

The straps coming from top of seat are vertical, not horizontal as I was expecting. What way do you strap these onto siderails/ backrest?? If you strap sideways onto siderails, the stitching will be under strain and will give way eventually?

 

 

You've spotted the design flaw!

 

I just take each strap over each siderail and clip together. As you have a backrest you shouldn't have to apply as much tension as you would without one. I upgraded from the mark one seat (the new seats are much better) earlier this year and, despite the odd angle, it is still holding up. I think others more able with a needle (sailmakers version) have had a go at converting to the angle you would have expected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The strap is odd, it takes a right angle turn an inch or so from the edge of the seat resulting in it being vertical rather than horizontal. I can't work out why it was done, more manufacturing work and seems like worse result. My immediate thought is just to unpick the last couple of inches back to where it turns, then stitch it straight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got my new seat t'other day and thought the same but when i fitted it, it kinda made sense being vertical cos the back of the seat comes just below the siderail. It doesn't pull across the main seam like the old one did, and like Plezzy says, with a backrest it shouldn't need to have so much tension.

I haven't done more than sit in it on the drive yet though so my view may change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm ready to try out my new RS at Ainsdale (after an agonising wait for the bpka insurance). I put it all together (swan neck, 1.5m axle and midi tyres) as best as I thought with the axle tabs down, the footpegs down and closest to the seat and the swan neck pushed in far enough so when I extend my leg fully I get full lock. I brought it with me last time I flew my kite at Ainsdale and showed it to Matt. One of his first comments was (after complimenting me on a very comfortable and sturdy buggy) was that the way the footpegs were setup, the heel of my closest foot would hit the swan neck when turning.

 

I'm now thinking of putting the footrests forward, but still in the lowest position, and then push the swan neck in further to accomodate for the pegs being further away. However the end of the swan neck seems then to be really low ready to hit anything that sticks up slightly from the ground. Would I now be better to rotate the axle so the tabs are up to get more clearance?

 

Bear in mind that I haven't really buggied before, so all these thoughts and concerns are purely academical...but not for long now!

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Koen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your set up sounds about right. I don't have the swanneck, but even with a standard downtube there is the potential for the inside turning foot to touch it, but I can't recall this being a problem. When turning, it's the outside foot that does most if not all of the work. The inside leg merely bends at the knee and the foot probably flattens a little. (I also do pull on the foot straps to aid the turn sometimes). The foot/leg would ultimately hit the downtube somewhere on it's length wouldn't it? Best try and see before you go changing it.

 

As for the axle tabs. Up to you. Suggested way is with tabs up, which enables the seat to sit lower in the side-rails without dragging on the ground. This gives a more 'in' than 'on' buggy feel, and may ultimately enable you to hold/fly a bigger kite. However, I'm a tabs down man at the moment......but may review this having revisited it posting this:)

 

Oh, and if you swap the footrest over (left on right ...) then you get more position permutations. not sure if that's good or bad new to you:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got a chance to use my new seat this week, and i judge it a qualified success! It seems comfortable and well-made (so far). In fact I'd been flying for an hour non-stop before i even thought about the seat!

I don't know if it's placebo effect, lucky installation or the seat, but I don't seem to feel the bumps of our field as much.

Also the mods to the backrest strap really do seem to work, taking the lateral strain out of the seam which split mine, but as I've got a proper backrest I haven't tightened it too much.

I have pics but my main computer went bang night before last so gotta get a new power supply today

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitted the rs backrest the other day - well comfy. The only problem is when I want to strip the bug down, the back rest forces the rear siderails either in or out preventing easy removal of the bolts in the tabs. Had a scoot about in absolute rubbish wind yesterday but it felt good.
I haven't had to remove the axle since fitting backrest but I remember it being well tight! i don't now if this is the norm but i tend to jam my back against the rest to keep from obe's. Only mentioned it cos I've been out twice in 3 days this week after at least a month - maybe more like 2 - of no buggying and as soon as I sat in the bug today I could feel a bruise right across my back where the rest goes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitted the rs backrest the other day - well comfy. The only problem is when I want to strip the bug down, the back rest forces the rear siderails either in or out preventing easy removal of the bolts in the tabs.

 

I have exactly the same problem. I first tried to fit the backrest to the siderails with the axle already on and couldn't get the backrest to fit properly at all. Tried again with the axle removed and the backrest fit beautifully...until I then tried to get the axle on :rolleyes:...the backrest had pushed out the siderails quite a bit. I find that I can squeeze the siderails with backrest just enough to get the bolts through the tabs (one siderail propped against the side of my body, gripping the other siderail with one hand and use my free hand to slip the bolts in) and then just tighten it all up.

 

All this fiddling has unfortunately resulted in a few scratches where the powder coating has come off. What do people suggest to touch this up with? A bit of hammerite?

 

Thanks,

 

Koen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitted the rs backrest the other day - well comfy. The only problem is when I want to strip the bug down, the back rest forces the rear siderails either in or out preventing easy removal of the bolts in the tabs.

 

I have exactly the same problem. I first tried to fit the backrest to the siderails with the axle already on and couldn't get the backrest to fit properly at all. Tried again with the axle removed and the backrest fit beautifully...until I then tried to get the axle on :rolleyes:...the backrest had pushed out the siderails quite a bit. I find that I can squeeze the siderails with backrest just enough to get the bolts through the tabs (one siderail propped against the side of my body, gripping the other siderail with one hand and use my free hand to slip the bolts in) and then just tighten it all up.

 

All this fiddling has unfortunately resulted in a few scratches where the powder coating has come off. What do people suggest to touch this up with? A bit of hammerite?

 

Thanks,

 

Koen.

 

Not suggesting it's the right answer to the backrest problem, but if you've go for frame extenders it should be easier to fit the axle.

 

I've not got the RS backrest, but I have fitted a Trickbitz one. I had to play around with it's position for quite a while to aovid the problem referred to here. Everything looks sweet, but then when you tighten all the bolts etc.. it all goes a bit out of true. If the RS backrest is pushing the siderails out, it might be worth moving it further up the side rail (only an inch or two), when not attached to the axle. When tightened the axle may then be closer to the bolt holes.....although I suspect you might have tried this already:(

 

As for paint. not used any yet, but earlier posts do mention using hammerite.

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...