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Showing results for tags 'Bridle'.
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9 downloads
Information sheet for tweaking the AAA Bridle Adjuster on Flexifoil Blade IV kites. -
Tuning a kite is not just about making either the steering / front lines longer or shorter. I get that. But for kites that have a mixer like Flysurfer kites, is it the same principle in tuning the bridles? My Pansh is up for sale, but I flew it out of the bag last week for the first time in a year, to see if everything is ok. Alas, the leading-edge crumbled on me when the kite went to 12 o'clock. It doesn't tend to happen along the other areas of the wind-window, such as 3, 2 and 1 o'clock, but only when it's at zenith. And not all the time, sometimes. The problem I think is that when the wind dies down a little, the leading edge collapses, and doesn't hold its shape like a Flysurfer does. The kite used to fly perfectly, and I think some bridles have either shrunk or stretched. I was told that by shortening the B or C (or both), this problem tends to go away. I've not done that yet, but when I do align the bridle connecting points, they are about 2-3cm apart in this order: A is longer, followed by B and then C. What tips/advice could you give please? -
All brake bridles and secondary "A" bridles fitted, from this point I'll work my way across all the secondary bridles then build the main cascades up. Why "Pause for thought" I was thinking as a boy I loved making Airfix kits, tanks, planes and ships, Meccano was another favourite, are we slowly moving away from children making things? Everything today is so easy and electronic gizzmos galore, they don't have to think about much in terms of creating anything or working out how something works. I can see how skills from the past get lost and wonder how many skills "we" will loose. That said if you are inclined to "do-it-yourself" there are so many resources now on how to do almost anything, but that depends on whether you can be bothered to do it yourself and reap the reward of self satisfaction. Here is where I'm at, although this is the point I drive my wife mad, "but darling I have to keep it hung up"
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Before I start a bit of background: For my NPW builds I did all the cascade bridling using double slipper knots and double stopper knots, this made the bridling fairly easy and relatively quick, also means any line can be easily adjusted or even replaced, the down side is the knots have a tendency to snag once packed away, I haven't had any issues but care needs to be taken that the kite is fully shaken out and all lines are clear before flying. Now I know there is a second method, using a fid or piano wire to "feed" the end of the line into the core of the line, pictures and "how-to's" make it look easy, but when you're dealing with 0.6mm line I just can't get me eyes to see that let alone my udder like fingers to try it What I do now for a knot-less bridle is make a loop and sew the lines together (I'll take a pic once started), this means no snagging, but the line with a loop at each end is fixed so no adjustment is available, I start from the kite with a larks head and move outwards to the final collection point larks head at each bridle junction. This is my line of choice: For Secondaries (closest to the kite) I use 33daN line, for the Primaries I use 49daN rated line. For this kite I need to make-up 118 lines in total, Making allowances for loops it'll take 39m of primary line and 85m of secondary line.
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I do all my bridle lines in pairs, same one for each side and check both are the same length. Firstly I make a loop on the end of the line on the reel, I make the loop 12cm long with 2cm at the end unsewn: Marked out: First loop complete, then I measure the bridle length (plus 12cm for the other loop) and cut: First brake secondary pair finished: And attached straight on to kite (to prevent any mix-ups!)
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