I'm assuming they're not 20mm axle bolts?

Holy Moly! I check all my bolts, fixtures and fittings every time before I go out - always worried I loose a wheel at 60kph! Thanks for sharing

its on 12mm axle bolts and my own stupid fault for not checking them

But on a side note it makes for a good picture lol

Agreed that the small fields make 20 mph feel like 50.... My fields are small enough that 15 mph feels crazy... gets one good at turning though, eh!

Though I must say that even on the beach when I've gotten to my PB of 26.6 mph, that speed still felt screaming fast!!

LOL, I've had my wheel pass me several times.

Only had wheel issues with the PL not my Libre. Same 12 mm bolts, the Libre runs 20's.

But I tend to snap high tensile 12mm bolts.

Libre run a nut on the bolt between the wheel and the axle, PL just bolt the wheel on.

The nut allows you to adjust the tension on the wheel, and yet lock the bolt in as tight as to the axle without crushing the spacers in the wheel.

PL have never realised why Libre do this, but it is a great way to save your bearings and spacers from deforming, and increasing the life from your wheels (wheel rims, bearings, and spacers).

Small parks are great. You have to learn to turn, and it sharpens your reflexes when you get 3 or 4 other kiters in the same field.

I've played follow the leader with 6 other buggiers in such a small park. 

And if your wheel tries to run away from you , just chuck the buggy up on two wheels and chase it!!

Usually (nine out of ten) the left wheel as well, not the right.

On a side note, people, do give your buggy the once over every six months for cracks or other nasties.

I think I have to be the worst offender at turning a buggy into scrap. I've gone through 2 axles, 4 forks, and 3 sets of side rails. 

The only original part on my PL buggy is the down tube and the foot pegs, third seat as well.

It is 17 years old.

And I have cracked both the 6mm stainless plates that adjust the camber on the Libre Full Race, only person in the world as far as I know to do as such. 

A nut shouldn't ever be needed if the spacer is up to scratch. The spacer needs to be of thick enough wall to take the compression strength and the exact length so as not to side load the bearings. This takes a bit of time as the plastic compresses as the bearing seats correctly, so they need to be setup properly for optimum performance.

The Peter Lynn/Libre plastic rims have very little bearing support that transitions out to the webbing of the rim. Then they slot it all the way around the bearing as well. 

The manufacturers just haven't bothered. Some of the spacers are a joke they are so thin and the ends are not even square to the bearing face. 

It's just that the plastic wheels are so ordinary in their construction tolerances, this cant be achieved easily and this "just add a nut" is an easy out.

Aussie made "Fallshaw" plastic wheels have very close manufacturing tolerances and once fitted with a 2mm walled spacer machined to the correct length, perform perfectly to over 130 kmh on our land yachts.

Sysmic rims, have the best bearing spacer setup system I have seen by far. Although the earlier Sysmic rims were a bitch to change the bearings. The spacer didn't have a very big cutout to fit the punch into to remove the bearing on the opposite side. The spacer is centred with a firm rubber sleeve, to keep it in position when fitting the wheel to the axle. A really nice design and they run perfectly.

I agree Chook.

The spacers that have been delivered with my PL and Libre were very thin.

I have some nice 2.5mm wall (one inch tube) that I use one the Libre, no problems, and no mushrooms.

And I haven't had to make new one's since getting the buggy over 10 years ago.

Sysmic, well I've been trying to get a set of these for well over a year now....

While the Falshaw plastics are good, they are not as round as I'd like, so the sysmics are on the cards. 

change out the m12 bolt, nip down to your local bolt supplier get some "M16 shoulder screws" http://www.allfasteners.com.au/socket-shoulder-screw-cap-head-metric-coarse-thread-12.9-high-tensile-plain-unplated-black this will give you a lot stronger axle. You will knead to change the bearing and prod. get some shim washers/.

Dang, I keep forgetting to check out the blogs.  Good story @lasrocas, your local spot and buggy philosophy sounds a lot like mine.  Haven't lost a wheel yet in my pl buggy but they pretty much always need tightened from the previous time out.

Come on @lasrocas show us how your buggy looks now is it just the seat that hasn't changed?